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Small fishing villages and flawless beaches in the Algarve
Tuesday, 24 August 2010 16:42

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I was not sure if the Algarve was the place for me, seeing as I didn't play golf, or have a young family, and I certainly wasn’t retired (writes Hannah Copely). But nonetheless I decided to see what I could discover in this southernmost region of Portugal. The name Algarve was given during Moorish rule and comes from the Arabic word Al Gharb, meaning ‘The West’.

 



My destination was a small fishing village called Salema an hour’s stress-free drive (on an empty motorway) from Faro airport.   Salema is quintessentially Portuguese, even though it has bent and shaped itself to the needs of tourists. Fishermen still habit small dwellings by the ocean. Restaurants are small and family owned – a father and son will proudly display the fish they caught that day, and elderly gentlemen continue to chatter together and play cards at the bus stop.

Salema has a popular, clean and a safe sandy beach with lifeguards. It is worth noting that the sea is always very cold - in every season - due to being the Atlantic. And while it has many restaurants, the downside is that they are quite expensive and continue to get more expensive as the years go by. I feel that it is a must to hire a car to explore this area.

Sleepy Salema is 10 miles from the historic port town of Lagos and six miles from the surfer’s paradise of Sagres. Lagos is steeped in history: Henry the Navigator conducted various maritime expeditions from here, establishing Portugal as a colonial power. Whilst sitting in one of it’s many beautifully tiled squares, it is recommended to try the traditional Portuguese treat Pasteis de Nata, a pastry tart filled with a sweet custard centre, complemented with a cup of Portuguese Delta coffee.

 



There are many things to explore in Lagos - I recommend a visit to St. Anthony’s church ('Igreja de Santo António'), where a plain façade disguises the extravagance of its interior. Next door is a regional museum ('Museu Regional'), where you will find many eclectic artefacts. The waterfront fort ('Forte da Ponta da Bandeira') is also full of historic information of the town’s naval past, and is worth visiting, even "just" for the view of the bay.

It is possible to take a small boat to see the ancient caves of Lagos, or 'grottos’ as they are called; this normally takes about 40 minutes and costs around €10 (it is not for those without sea-legs!). I also recommend taking a pleasure boat cruise to see the dolphins.

An influx of migrants from Cape Verde spread themselves across the promenades selling counterfeit Louis Vuitton handbags, scruffy globetrotters with American accents thrust maps for popular tourist excursions into your unwilling hands, and Romanies with crying tots ask for coins – all this takes something away from the town and makes you crave the privacy of the west coast.

Sagres was said to be a base for Henry the Navigator’s Naval school in the 11th century. It is home to Cape St. Vincent, which prides itself as the most westerly point in Europe. I believe Sagres to be the windiest place on Earth: windfarms, kite-karting tracks, surf-shops and many locals with windswept hairstyles illustrate this fact. The coastline is rugged and unforgiving – local fishermen scale the cliffs to fish from perilous points to catch the biggest and freshest of fish, and sadly many fall to their deaths each year.

Amongst the rugged coastline, paradise exists in the form of flawless beaches, some small and secluded, some spreading as far as the eye can see – and more excitingly, some are not even on the map! This whole area sits in a protected national park ('Parque Vincentina'), and it is fun and exhilarating to have such a beautiful place on your doorstep.

 



In my opinion the best time of year to visit is May/June period, when it is not too hot, spring flowers are in abundance and hundreds of kingfishers can be spotted in the valleys.

The Algarve is definitely not a shopper’s paradise, and while some traditional handcrafted ceramics can be purchased at very reasonable prices, I have found that clothing boutiques are overpriced and opportunistic. A lot of souvenirs also appear to have been made not in the hills of Portugal, but in the hills of China.

There a few day excursions that I highly recommend: the first place of interest to visit is the spa town of Monchique. The natural spring water fountains which flow down the hills are a very refreshing sight to see on a hot day. The second excursion I recommend would be to take a day trip by boat from the city of Portimão to the historic walled city of Silves.

I do not recommend the Algarve to those who enjoy a ferocious nightlife - it is more for those who are looking to enjoy the quieter moments of life. It is a place which you can enjoy as a young family, as a romantic couple or even alone.

 

 


 

About the author

Hannah Copely is a writer and photographer who recently completed her BA (HONS) and makes regular trips to Greece.

http://hannahfelicity.carbonmade.com

 

 

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