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Bobbing boats and bougainvillea on the Peloponnese peninsula
Monday, 06 September 2010 16:29

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On my journey to the airport I was equally nervous and excited, as the Greek town of Nafplion did not appear to have many lines dedicated to it in the travel books I own (writes Hannah Copely). None of my friends had visited, although a quick image search on Google filled me with expectation – a majestic fort sitting on a tiny island, fishing boats calmly resting and cobbled streets framed by bougainvillea and jasmine flowers – this was the Greece I wanted to experience.



Nafplion is named after Nafplieus, son of Poseidon.  It is referred to as the ‘Naples of the east’ by the Venetians; it is better known as the first capital of Greece after its independence from the Ottomans.

Nafplion is situated on the Argolic Gulf in the northeast Peloponnese. It lies 147 km from Athens and takes approximately two hours by car (depending on traffic).  Driving in Greece is not for the faint of heart, although in my opinion it is a necessity to hire a car.  It is possible to reach Nafplion by water, but I prefer to have fewer constraints on holiday and be able to set my own timetable.

After leaving the motorway we drove into the countryside and the stress left us quickly.  It was a pleasant sight to see many small farmers’ stalls along the roadside.  Many fresh products such as delicious watermelons, citrus fruits and vegetables and the finest of local olive oils can be purchased at very cheap prices.



Nafplion - although quaint and picturesque - can be quite a bustling little place, so I would recommend renting a small villa in one of the many villages in the surrounding area (where it is also cooler and cheaper).

The town compels you to sit down, relax and have a coffee.  There are many stylish cafeterias to choose from, with high-tech water cooling fans and glitzy lounge furniture.  My favourites are those along the seafront, where you can enjoy a view of Boutzi island whilst being cooled by the sea breeze. If you are in need for further relaxation and reflection there are many ‘Komboloi’ (worry bead) shops and even a Komboloi museum (25 Staikopoulou St).

Boutzi is a coastal fortress built by the Venetians in 1471 and can be reached by boat in a matter of minutes – a return journey costs €4. I was surprised to see a beautiful tall olive-tree growing in the centre of the fortress.



Overlooking the town is the imposing Citadel Palamidi which stands 200m high. The ancient impregnable fortress can be accessed by car or for the more daring by 999 steps. I recommend visiting during the evening when the sun is less punishing. The panoramic view from the castle can only be described as sublime.



There is a lot to see, many statues illustrate the town’s colourful three-thousand year old history, prosperous neoclassical houses still show off their beauty, and if one needed a reminder of the historical significance of the town, the archaeological museum of Nafplion is filled with frescos, terracotta heads, vases and masks dating back as early as the seventh century.

The real bonus was seeing very few foreign tourists, the majority being Greeks.

Notable excursions to contemplate are the ancient ruins of Tiryns (4 kilometres from Nafplion), the ruins of Mycenae (11km from Argos) where you can see the impressive Lion Tholos tomb. I would recommend a day trip to visit the ancient theatre of Epidaurus which seats 14,000 spectators (an hour's drive from Nafplion) and then drive a few more kilometres to visit the cosmopolitan island of Poros.

To conclude, Nafplion is a real treasure, a perfect base for visiting the rich historic Peloponnese peninsula.

 


 

About the author

Hannah Copely is a UK-born freelance photographer, graphic designer and artist. She has traveled Africa as a child, lived in Amsterdam and found love in Greece.  She is currently studying for an MA in photography.

http://hannahfelicity.carbonmade.com

 

Comments  

 
+1 #1 John 2010-09-07 05:02
I did this over 10years ago on a car trip around and yes is a real gem, stayed in the main square in a little hotel perfect, as was the town, then drove to Dimitsana what the greeks call little swiss another total gem high in the mountains covered in trees and 5 very interesting monasteries well worth visiting and the people are wonderful.
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