In serene isolation, the lovely Llŷn Peninsula points out into the Irish Sea just west of Snowdonia National Park in North Wales (writes Rebecca Burns). Its Welsh-speaking inhabitants are adamant that their little patch of Wales is blessed with fairer weather than other parts of Britain's west coast, and the gentle sunshine I lapped up there only backs up their story.

For a tranquil escape to an unspoilt rural idyll, Llŷn has it all: a mild climate, wind-whipped coastal cliffs, peaceful coves and sweet little fishing villages. Yet it remains blissfully quiet for much of the year, with some pubs closing their doors completely for periods during the deserted winter months - and even in the summer it's less crowded than more accessible resorts in South and West Wales.

At around 30 miles long and just eight miles wide for much of its length, the region is compact enough to explore in a single trip with your own transport – whether by car, bike, or even on foot along the path snaking around both coastlines, only rarely losing sight of the sea. The coves, beaches and cliffs of the coastline rise up into rolling hills in the interior, with the odd dormant volcanic peak standing tall.

Large portions of the Llŷn Peninsula are classed as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and it is also home to some 20 sites of Special Scientific Interest, a National Nature Reserve, a National Heritage Coastline, and a European Marine Special Area of Conservation.

Travelling roughly west from Snowdonia National Park, you reach the laid-back seaside town of Criccieth, the gateway to the peninsula's south coast, dominated by a formidable castle perched on the headland above two fine, sandy beaches.



Further west along the south coast you reach the main market town of Pwllheli, where the Welsh political party Plaid Cymru was founded in 1925. Pretty much everyone you meet speaks Welsh in this area, and the locals are very proud of both their language and their Welsh heritage – although they will happily converse with you in English if you don't fancy trying out any tongue-twisting Welsh yourself. This is a good place to stock up on some food and other supplies if you're staying in self-catering accommodation in more remote parts of the peninsula, where petrol stations and decent supermarkets are few and far between.

Travelling further west and sticking to the coastline you reach Llanbedrog, with its sheltered National Trust beach lined with vibrantly-coloured beach huts. Popular with holidaymakers since the early 20th century, a tramway was built to connect the village to nearby Pwllheli, and although it is now disused and has largely been washed away, you can still spot some sections of the old track. The village is also home to Wales's oldest art gallery, Plas Glyn-y-Weddw, housed in a superb Victorian Gothic mansion which was formerly a dower house built in 1856 for Lady Elizabeth Love Jones Parry. Today, the arts centre is well worth a visit for the building alone, with its striking Jacobean staircase, hammer beam roof and ten beautiful gallery spaces. The building's upper landings are even said to occasionally be graced by the ghostly presence of Lady Love Jones Parry herself.

Continuing along the south coast you reach the region's watersports mecca: the large village of Abersoch.  Its popularity has sapped a little of its charm, but that doesn't stop people flocking here for dinghy sailing, windsurfing, jet-skiing and other water-based activities. Nearby, Hell's Mouth (or Porth Neigwl) is a well-known surfing spot that can hold large swells in the winter reaching up to 1.5 metres.



Almost at the tip of the peninsula, the village of Aberdaron was one of the last stops for Medieval pilgrims heading to rugged Bardsey Island (Ynys Enlli), and this windswept spot is sometimes referred to as the "Land's End of Wales". Walk over the rugged, heather-clad cliff-tops above Bardsey Sound for a view out towards the humped 'Island of 20,000 saints', or hop on a boat from the village to visit it, looking out for grey seals, dolphins and porpoises in the waters around the island, and spotting equally rare bird life.



Nearby, the fine white sand at Porth Oer beach 'whistles' when it's dry because of the unique shape of the grains, giving rise to the nickname 'Whistling Sands'. Up on the cliffs above the beach you might spot glossy black chough displaying some impressive aerobatics, while back down in the rock pools there's a whole other world of seaweed, sponges, limpets and other underwater life.

Heading up onto the peninsula's north coast you start to get a real feeling of isolation, far from the busy markets of Pwllheli and the trendy wakeboard shops of Abersoch. Much of the coastline is protected by the National Trust, full of darting sea birds and other wildlife, and dotted with old quarries and Iron Age Forts. The main communities here are just a couple of small villages, including the sweet fishing village of Morfa Nefyn, from where you can follow a coastal path to the sweeping sandy beach at Porth Dinllaen,which is perhaps one of the most perfect spots on the peninsula. Walk down to the landmark Ty Coch Inn on the beach for refreshments with an unrivalled view.

Further along the north coast, Trefor is dominated by three tall hills, The Rivals (Yr Eifl), rising up behind the village. The summit of the second largest, Tre'r Ceiri, is home to one of Europe's finest examples of a Stone Age settlement. From the village pier, taking the coastal path through National Trust land along the cliffs, you pass sea stacks and get some fantastic views of the peaks of The Rivals.

What's wonderful about the Llŷn Peninsula is that there's barely a spot on it that isn't captivating. A week spent here can almost leave you feeling slightly hermit-like, afraid to venture back into the city and face large crowds - and I can't think of a much better place to get away from it all.