The summer of 2009 promised to be a hot dry one: that’s what the experts predicted anyway, and to some extent it was dry, at least until I went away anywhere (writes Simon Newsham). Choosing to travel within Britain this summer, Snowdonia made an appealing prospect.  The accommodation was of the budget variety - as a group we often stay in youth hostels, as the cost of around £13 per night means plenty of cash left over for some good dining and a few beers.

Kings YHA is situated near Dolgellau at the foot of Cadair Idris at 855m, an important peak in the south of Snowdonia National Park - it’s not as busy as Snowdon, but is still a good walk with superb views across the Mawddach estuary to Barmouth.  You may have seen the Julia Bradbury series “Railway Walks” along the Mawddach on the route of the old railway.  The hostel is ideal for tackling Cadair Idris but is a long way from the nearest pub, The George at Penmaenpool, so be prepared to drive when looking for evening entertainment.

The hostel offers the option to camp in the grounds, so I threw the tent in the car, but as you can imagine, I wasn’t at all surprised that the moment the tent was up it began to rain...  Fortunately it didn’t rain all weekend (only most of it), but I was getting worried about the stream a mere five metres from the tent.

The hostel is ideally placed for approaching Cadair Idris from the north, the paths are steep and slippery on the lower slopes but you soon reach the pony path which has been improved by The National Trust, which looks after the area.  The weather on the summit can be changeable being both high and in close proximity to the coast; so pack waterproofs, gloves and a woolly hat.  When we reached the top, the weather had closed in with thick cloud, and we couldn’t see below the summit to the lake Llyn y Gadair.  Visibility was about ten metres, so great care was taken on the path by the cliff edge.

It never ceases to amaze me just how many people set off to climb substantial hills without a map or any idea what to wear. At the top there is a stone shelter, which on the wet and cold July day we arrived was rammed full of walkers enjoying their lunch.  A National Trust warden was on hand to give advice and very busy he was too. 

“Which way do I get down?” asked one man.  The warden replied: “What route did you come up?”..... “Uphill.......from the car park,” said the man.  When the laughter had died down, it transpired that he had no idea what path he had taken, and it took further questioning by the warden to reveal which car park he’d come from.  The next unbelievable thing I saw was a Japanese girl wearing a jumper, skirt, socks and trainers, her only protection from the wind and rain being a clear plastic poncho with the words “Alton Towers” on the back.

When the cloud cap on the summit does clear, you are blessed with outstanding views of the coast, while inland the peaks of many of Snowdonia’s mountains can be seen.  As you’ve put in the effort to get there, spend a bit of time to take in all that scenery - as I mentioned earlier, this mountain is fairly quiet compared to Snowdon itself.  You can really get a sense of being alone and on top of the world by heading further east around the ridge which forms the chain of peaks to Mynydd Moel, where you can linger and survey the beauty of the landscape. 

We did the Mawddach Estuary walk the following day in fabulous sunshine, and walking the disused railway line we could see the Victorian seaside town of Barmouth looking very inviting.  To reach it you cross a wooden tollbridge over the estuary mouth: this footbridge sits next to the railway swing bridge, which carries passenger trains.  I don’t know if it still swings but it does lead to the pubs of Barmouth, who all claim to have been where Julia Bradbury had a pint.  We chose the Tal Y Don for a beer, as the bus stop was outside and we’d all had enough of walking. Southern Snowdonia has plenty to offer the traveller in search of stunning scenery and good hill walking, but be prepared to get wet.