There are few towns as mysterious as Le Puy, in the French department of Haute-Loire (writes Fabienne Reynolds). Built on volcanic rocks, its astonishing Roman sanctuaries have been pilgrimage sites for some fifteen centuries.

But Le Puy is not just about religion, walking through its streets one discovers intriguing sculptures that testify to a very unusual fraternity the ‘Confrérie des Cornards’, a secret society with a rather epicurean touch.

Le Puy also has its own temple of Diana and the cathedral is built on an old pagan site. This makes for a very diverse and intriguing tour where cultural influences abound…

Le Puy is a sacred destination not least because it was the starting point of the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, an ancient trail, in use for over 1000 years. Pilgrims would come from all over Europe to pray at the feet of the Black Virgin before setting off for a ‘walk’ that would take months and cover 1600 Kilometres (about 1200 miles). There are still some 20,000+ people who follow the ancient tracks, possibly more in search of nature and history than to seek redemption.

The town, built on and around an ancient volcano is around 130 Kilometres south west of Lyons. The exact origins of the town are unclear but it is said that the first sanctuary ever built there was on an ancient pagan site and that Charlemagne, King of the Franks and Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire visited twice.

When you arrive the first question that comes to mind is ‘where do I start?’ Well, I would suggest that if you drive to Le Puy, you find your way to the main square (Place du Brueil) and park your car. The old part of the town is not exactly practical for cars. The lower part is reasonably modern and flat but making your way to the old town becomes a matter of climbing that sometimes even involves staircases. The nearby tourist office will point you in the direction of hotels and restaurants as well as three different itineraries (one after dark) that will allow you to have a good look around. There are also orientation boards posted at regular intervals to allow you to make the most of your visit and navigate your way around.

It would be almost impossible to list everything that there is to see and do (and I may spoil some of the surprises this town has to offer), so instead here is a taster of things to expect.

Place du Martouret: during the French revolution the guillotine stood on this square and was responsible for over 40 executions. This is also where the original Black Virgin statue was burnt in 1794.

Place du Plot: on a less sombre note this is a delightful Italian style plaza. Every Saturday morning, the square opens up as a farmers market where specialties such as the Velay cheese can be purchased. This was the starting point for the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.

Rue Charmalene: at number 18 was the seat of the Confrérie des Cornards whose purpose was indulgence in foods and wines and other such pleasures. The façade is easily recognizable as two horned masks grimace to the passers-by, one laughing and the other pulling a tongue. This jovial society funded after the religious wars (perhaps as a way to get even with rigour and piety) disappeared long ago but its rituals such as the kissing of a poplar tree on the initiation ceremony was still witnessed in 1887. This is proof enough that not only saints roamed this holy place.

The cathedral ‘Notre-Dame du Puy’: you will reach it through the rue des Tables that leads to the 134 steps of the cathedral.  It is quite a unique building; the style is roman but there are several influences reflecting the passing of time and culture such as Oriental and Moor.  We were told that due to the increasing number of pilgrims in the 11th and 12th century, the cathedral needed to be extended. The only problem was that it was built on top of a rock.

In the end, several aisles were added and these were literally suspended over the void. The inside of the cathedral is no less interesting and when visiting you must find out why the staircase that led to the entrance was known as the navel (nombril). The statue of the black Virgin is a copy of the original one and there are many theories about its origins but it remains a mystery, as does the stone covered in hieroglyphs…

St-Michel-d'Aiguilhe: The sight of the St-Michel-d'Aiguilhe chapel perched on top of its volcanic plug is unforgettable, almost miraculous in itself. Remains of a megalithic tomb seem to have been used for foundations. Inside, frescoes are worth a look at, as does the treasure that was unearthed in 1955.

Town of history and mystery, Le Puy has a lot more to offer. It is also a centre for lace making; the Conservatoire National De La Dentelle is worth a visit but check opening times and dates before going. Le Puy is also fiercely proud of its regional specialities: green lentils (definitely tasty), liquors, beers and cheese.

There are many events taking place throughout the year such as the colourful Fête du Roi de l'Oiseau (bird king festival) in September where costumed villagers entertain visitors for a whole week, and in 2010 an international balloon gathering in November, and a Mammoth convention end of August. For sports enthusiasts, there are several circuits in the area that use part of the old pilgrimage routes and can be taken on foot, mountain bike or horseback and for the less adventurous an aerial tour of the area by plane will still provide you with a sense of the place.

You will need more than one day to see everything and more than one meal to experience the gastronomy.  The locals are friendly and used to greeting visitors - they’ve done it for centuries. Le Puy is a town like no other; it has managed to keep a foot in history whilst resolutely embracing the future.

Pictures Credit: Office de Tourisme du Puy en Velay

About the author

Fabienne Reynolds is a British/French freelance journalist and marketer who currently resides in England. She has traveled extensively throughout Europe and likes to discover new places, foods and wines.

http://www.flair-marketing.co.uk/fabiennereynolds.html