The charming city of Córdoba in southern Spain is the perfect place to enjoy the laid-back Andalusian 'alegría de vivir', and to admire thousands of years of architectural splendour (writes Rebecca Burns).

Hidden in the tangle of Córdoba 's old streets around the Mezquita (Great Mosque) are a surprising number of beautiful historical Moorish, Jewish and Christian buildings and monuments, including the medieval Alcázar of the Christian Monarchs, old Hammams, the Jewish synagogue, 13th century Fernandine and Alphonsine churches, convents, palaces, and whitewashed houses arranged around pretty courtyards.

It would be easy to while away the hours sipping mint tea or a cold beer at one of the sunny pavement cafés, but despite the heat it proves hard to resist the temptation to explore the maze of narrow streets to see what's around the corner.

In Roman times, Córdoba was Spain's largest city. By the 10th century it lay at the heart of the Western Islamic empire, and was one of the most advanced cities in the world. Today the beautiful historical centre is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with the incredible Moorish Mezquita as its centrepiece.

Marvel at the city's masterpiece

The Mezquita is one building you're in no danger of missing. Lying at the heart of the pedestrianised old town, it represents one of the earliest and most strikingly beautiful examples of Spanish Muslim architecture.

Added to by a succession of invaders and rulers, the Mezquita has a chequered past. Today the building has a Roman Catholic Cathedral inserted right into the middle of what was once a mosque (that had been built on the spot of an earlier Christian Visigothic Church). This creates an interesting mix of religious styles under one roof, blending Christian and Islamic art and architecture.

During its time as a mosque, the Mezquita was the second largest mosque in the Muslim world, richly decorated inside with a cobbled orange tree courtyard outside. The first thing that strikes you is the huge, carved doorways and heavily decorated doors on the external walls - then you step inside to face a forest of columns made of onyx, marble, jasper and granite, and row upon row of towering red and white striped arches.  The Mihrab, a domed shrine of Byzantine mosaics built by Al Hakam II (961-76), once housed the Koran and relics of Muhammad. In front of this you'll find the Maksoureh, a room full of masterpieces of Islamic art, particularly mosaics and plasterwork.

Hunt down hidden treasures

As far back as Roman times, Andalusia's hot, dry climate led to houses being built around a central patio – and the Moors continued this tradition. Wander down any of the ancient streets and you'll smell jasmine and orange blossom, and stumble across open doorways offering a glimpse into residents' private courtyards. Filled with flowers and ornate fountains to help keep the space cool, many also have intricate mosaic features in the floors or on the walls. To celebrate their beauty, an annual Patios Festival takes place every May, which sees residents opening up their courtyards to the scrutiny of the outside world, competing for the prize for the finest patio. Córdoba 's 16th century Palace of Viana is another place to see the city's famed flowered patios, amongst its 12 gardens.

Enjoy aromatic delights

You can also follow your nose to track down the sweetly-scented Calle de las Flores, an ancient alleyway full of colourful flowers tumbling from pots clinging to the walls - or to the aromatic Salón de Té (Calle Buen Pastor, 13), a beautiful tea house set in a cobbled courtyard offering hundreds of varieties of tea alongside delicious, honey-soaked baklava pastries.

Relax at a Hammam

Recreating Moorish-era Arabic baths, you can visit the Baños Árabes Medina Califal hammam just a few minutes' walk away from the Mezquita, to bathe in the three water rooms, visit the steam room, and enjoy a massage. At one time baths such as these were incredibly popular in Córdoba , with around 400 hundred dotted about the city.

Feast on traditional tapas

At the end of a hot day on the cobbled streets of Cordoba, there are plenty of restaurants and bars such as the popular Bodegas Campos,  where you can take the weight off your feet, enjoy a cold beer and try some traditional Andalusian tapas - typically small plates of aceitunas (olives), croquetas (croquettes) boquerones (anchovies), calamares (battered squid) and chorizo (sausage), and bowls of salmorejo, a delicious Gazpacho-like cold soup. Best of all, the portions are small and cheap enough to let you try several dishes in one sitting...

About the author

Rebecca Burns is a British freelance journalist who currently lives in Bristol. She spent two years living in Asia and has travelled extensively throughout Europe.

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