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When people think of Scandinavia they often envisage traditional clothing and food inherited from the Vikings (writes Antony Hayes). They visualise snow-filled valleys, wolves, bison, bears and - unfortunately - expensive beer.
When people are asked about Norway in particular, the most common answer is “fjords”. Beautiful glacial fjords which, depending on the season, are either enclosed with lush green fields and pine trees or cold, snow capped mountains that hold majesty worthy of the Gods.
In this article I would like to talk about Jotunheimen, a national park where you will find the highest mountains in Norway, with glaciers and activities to please the most adventurous or laid-back of travellers.
Jotunheimen is found at the core of Norway between Oslo, Bergen and Trondheim, and is accessible by a number of different methods, whether by bus, train or car. The journey itself to the mountains offers views of some of the most serene landscapes in the world and is one that might involve a great deal of picture breaks if it is possible to do so. When you arrive at the Jotunheimen national park, the landscape suddenly changes to offer characteristics similar to that of the Lake District in England.
Characteristics that depict an anciently brutal force, such as those present during the birth of the world as we know it today. After pursuing a “bare bones” trail you eventually reach one of the focal points of the mountains, Gjendesheim, where it is possible to get changed into your special Norwegian mountain-climbing overalls and warm yourself up with a cup of coffee at the resident hotel and restaurant, before boarding the ferry to take you to where the painful but rewarding experience will begin.
The ferry costs around £10 per person to take you across, and once dropped off the only way back is by waiting several hours for the next one, or by trekking over and through the impressive mountains. From this point you have a couple of options as to which route you would like to take, however the most commonly-taken path from this point is the Bessegen trail at 1,743 metres above sea level.
Be warned however - please allow up to 8 hours to complete this tour (the reason why you have to catch the ferry at an ungodly hour). This trail in particular expands over several kilometres and offers the serious climber and adventurer a challenge to overcome. This is the reason why you may perhaps be surprised to find people both old and young on this trail with you.
During the journey you will have opportunities to witness distant glaciers and imperial views of the fjords, so make sure that the batteries for your camera are fully charged. This should help offer motivation and the fuel required to climb some of the most arduous parts. There is a particular part of the trek that requires some courage, so if you are afraid of heights I would not recommend this trip. While this excursion is suitable for many, when you arrive back at Gjendesheim you will feel a marvellous sense of accomplishment mixed with relief.
There are a number of other tours suited to enthusiasts and families alike, including trips to the Storbreen Glacier, the informative Hulderstigen path, or over the highest mountain in Scandinavia - Galdhøpiggen. Other activities could include water rafting in the summer or skiing in the winter.
One individual we met who had spent some time there on a training expedition while in the army was sharing a story of a time when he was the leading driver in a convoy of amphibious tanks. It was snowing and visibility was low, and he had noticed that he was travelling alone and had left his convoy behind. After inspecting his surroundings he had realised the reason for this was that he had mistakenly driven onto the frozen sea. While his vehicle should have been water capable he explained it was still a shaky experience.
If you are planning to spend some time in Jotunheimen you will find accommodation ranging from the more authentic cabins to camp sites and hotels, so even if you are not planning to venture out into the wild it would still be possible to spend a very romantically peaceful weekend there. To conclude, the Jotunheimen national park offers a range of activities and qualities and it can deliver this on a budget. Just keep in mind to bring appropriate clothing, as the weather can be unpredictable and change at rather short notice.
About the author
Antony Hayes is a British/South African freelance journalist who currently resides in Norway with his fiancée. He says: "I have learnt that there is no better way to find fuel for writing than travelling, and hope to get back out there soon. My definition of life is similar to that of experience, and when I experience life I like to write about it and share my perspective with the world."
www.antony-hayes.com |