The medieval Swiss town of Gruyères is a perfect destination for both cheese and history enthusiasts (writes Fabienne Reynolds). Gruyères is a mere hour's drive from Fribourg and a little gem of a town. It is a wonderful place to walk about, relax, and eat. Gruyères is a car free village with its own walled castle, an HR Giger-museum and is home to the most famous cheese in Switzerland, made according to a recipe that is more than 1000 years old…

Located close to the Pre-Alps, Gruyères is a town of charm and picturesque architecture. The town gave its name to the world famous gruyère cheese and to the surrounding area, La Gruyère. Inhabited since the late Palaeolithic period, La Gruyère belonged for a long time to the kingdom of Burgundy. It later became part of the Fribourg district following the bankruptcy of the last Count. According to the legend, king Gruerius founded Gruyères in 400 AD after he saw a crane (“grue”) flying in the red sky at night. He decided to build his town on the very same spot. The town’s coat of arms represents a crane on a red background. 

Gruyère has a long history and a tour of the town offers many opportunities to experience the past. The first encounter takes place when entering the town with the Chupia Barba tower. This is where prisoners were tortured mainly through the burning of their beard, hence the name Chupia Barba that translates as ‘burnt beard’.

Another point of interest is the old entry gate, Le Belluard. The painting on it depicts two legendary characters Claremboz and Bras de Fer who single handedly, so the story goes, defended the first assault from the Bernois during the 1349 Everdes war.  The crane is also present in the painting.

The old grain measures by the Auberge de la Halle are worth a look as they are literally set in stone! It is rumoured that the Count at the time used to keep an eye on the sales from the first floor window.

Further on stands Chalamala House, the pretty residence of Chalamala, jester of Count Peter IV who played the Chalumeau, hence his nickname. He was no ordinary entertainer as at the end of his life, he was wealthier than the Count himself.

The castle is a must-see. It is one of the most impressive in Switzerland and showcases 800 years of architecture and history. La Salle des Chevaliers is particularly interesting with its wood panelling and ceiling and the elegant salon Furet is delightful. The multi-media presentation is well worth attending as it provides many interesting facts about the town and its origins. Outside, the glorious French style gardens offer stunning views over the pre-alps.

Closer to our era, the HR Giger Museum provides a much more modern exhibition. HR Giger, the award-winning designer of ‘Alien’ displays his unusual work here, and if you have time, the new bar is certainly worth a visit as is sampling the Alien coffee. For anyone interested in Himalayan art, there is also a Tibetan museum nearby.

Your visit to the Gruyère area would not be complete without a tour of La Maison du Gruyère (Gruyère house). There you will discover the secrets of Gruyère cheese making and be able to sample the original recipe.

There are many places to eat and most of them offer cheese-based dishes such as fondue and raclette with perhaps a glass of Fendant (Swiss white wine) to go with it, but there are many other traditional culinary delights to suit all taste buds. The Café-Restaurant des Remparts (established in the 16th century) for example offers many local and Swiss specialties. 

The Gruyère area certainly caters for all budgets. There are many places to stay and you will find lodgings in the form of hotels, apartments, chalets, B&B, hostels and even for nature enthusiasts, on straw. The Hostellerie St-Georges and the Hôtel Fleur de Lys are both located within the city itself.

This is not all that the Gruyère area has to offer; there are many activities to pursue nearby. These include parachute jumps, horse riding, balloon flights, hiking, helicopter rides and white water rafting, as well as a natural spa in the village of Charmey. The Gruyère baths (Bains de la Gruyère) open up on a vast mountainous panorama and the heated water is rich in minerals. Chocolate lovers will find indulgence and learn about chocolate making at the famous chocolate Cailler (Nestlé) factory, in Broc.

In winter the area is close to the ski slopes, and a trip in December will add some more magic to your Christmas. Regardless of the season, Gruyères offers a delightful journey into a multi-faceted and friendly destination that is a true reflection of the region’s motto: Pre-alps without frontiers.

Pictures copyright La Gruyère Tourisme

About the author

Fabienne Reynolds is a British/French freelance journalist and marketer who currently resides in England. She has traveled extensively throughout Europe and likes to discover new places, foods and wines.

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