A very far cry from the bloated concrete coastal resorts of the Costa del Sol, inland Andalucía is a gentle, rolling landscape clad with olive groves and scattered with pueblos blancos – pretty, whitewashed towns and villages, tumbling steeply down the hillsides (writes Rebecca Burns).

These picturesque settlements seem to be gasping for the coolest air during the hottest months, and by perching as high up as they can, many of them enjoy astonishing views of the surrounding area.

From Malaga, we drove for less than half an hour before we felt a world away from the high rise apartments and drunken stag parties of Torremolinos and Benalmádena, and the coast's popular playgrounds for the rich and famous, such as Marbella.

On our driving trip across the region we stumbled across one pretty village after another, often visible from miles around thanks to their lofty positions – and most of them made for a pleasant excursion and a quick plate of tapas. To get your teeth into some real historical heritage, however, it's worth heading for Ronda, one of the region's largest and most striking pueblos blancos.

Both Ernest Hemingway and Orson Welles once whiled away their summers in Ronda, writing about the town's spectacular setting and its famous bull-fighting tournaments, and as soon as you arrive you can see why they felt so inspired.

Carved in two by a deep gorge, you'll need a head for heights here: the two parts of the town are separated by the El Tajo gorge and the rio Guadalevín which runs through it, and are connected only by bridges. The most dramatic of these is the 18th century Puente Nuevo, or 'new bridge' (although being built between 1751 and 1793, it's hardly very new any more). This bridge spans a sheer drop of 110-metres down to the canyon floor, and offers far-reaching views out to the hazy Serranía de Ronda mountains.

The town's two other bridges - Puente Romano ("Roman Bridge") and Puente Viejo ("Old Bridge") - have less of a drop beneath them, but both are architecturally impressive. Puente Viejo is the oldest, dating to 1616, and nowadays is open only to pedestrian traffic.

In Ronda's La Ciudad, the old quarter, you wander into cobbled streets lined with imposing mansion houses that are still home to some of Ronda's titled families – including the beautiful Casa de Don Bosco. In the summer months, the old town starts heaving with day-tripping tourists from the middle of the day onwards, but in the mornings and evenings it's far more pleasant and retains much of its charm.

Teetering on the edge of Ronda's craggy cliffs in La Ciudad is the tiny Moorish Mondragón Palace and its quaint courtyards, patios, and water gardens. Once in ruins, today the palace has been renovated and has recaptured some of its former glory. A spacious courtyard with Moorish tiling and Arabic script leads through to the water gardens, which are a miniature version of those found at Granada's Alhambra. Built around 1306-1314, the palace itself now houses the Municipal Museum, which depicts the history of the area - though the English information signs leave a little to be desired (and interpreted). From here, you can wander down a narrow alleyway to the leafy Plaza Duquesa de Parcent, one of Ronda's prettiest plazas.

Ronda also has a more bloodthirsty claim to fame as the birthplace of modern bullfighting, in which matadors stand their ground on foot (rather than on horseback, as had been the prevailing fashion from the older Jerez school of bullfighting). In fitting with its strong bullfighting links, Ronda boasts the oldest operating bullfighting ring in Spain – although it is used only occasionally.

The Plaza de Toros is a grand Neoclassical-style bullring designed in the late 18th century by architect José Martin de Aldehuela, who was also responsible for the design of the town's Puente Nuevo. Today, the bullring houses a museum where visitors can learn about the history of the Spanish corrida, and step out into the arena to imagine how it might feel to stand foot-to-hoof with an angry bull. Right next to the bullring is La Alameda del Tajo, a pleasant, leafy park which offers shade from the roasting summer sun as well as some spectacular views of the surrounding landscape.

Ronda has plenty of other historical sights to explore, including the water mine at La Casa del Rey Moro, and the remains of the 11th century Baños Arabes (Arabic baths), which are widely regarded to be one of the best preserved in Europe. But it's worth leaving yourself some time to take a stroll down the walking trail that follows the old reconstructed city walls, leading to the bottom of the gorge, from where you can get some great views of the town clinging to the rocks above.

And to round off any trip to Ronda, you have to enjoy a few plates of authentic Andalucian tapas. Head away from the main tourist areas and hunt out the smaller, less polished establishments in the San Francisco district, which can be found by following Armiñan street from Plaza Duquesa de Parcent. With many wineries in the Ronda region, you can also enjoy a good glass of local wine, such as those made by Bodejas Cortijo Las Monjas - which may be just enough to keep away any nightmares of that frightening drop down into the El Tajo gorge.

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