As some corners of the globe throw you into a fit of excited shrieks - say the bright lights and promise of Las Vegas - others will force you into silence as you stumble upon them in amazed bafflement (writes Julia Ossena). 

Reaching the banks of the Ganges at dawn, staring down the Great Canyon or watching sunset on a remote island in South Pacific all sound like the perfect settings to experience one of these moments when at last human beings run out of words and finally shut up out of respect for the grandeur of the world.

Approaching the legendary Hill of Crosses, in northern Lithuania, is one of those moments when as a tourist you can only gasp. Lost in the middle of a monotonous and flat countryside, this two-hump hillock blanketed by thousands of crosses literally takes your breath away. Small crosses, big crosses, wooden crosses, metallic crosses, simple crosses, carved crosses…

You are swallowed by a forest of holy testimonies as soon as you step onto the path cutting the hill in half. There are rosary beads, medals of diverse saints, flower garlands and crucifixes hanging heavily off them, with the occasional burning candles and incense sticks as well as statues of the Virgin Mary left behind by pilgrims and scattered all around. The number of crosses is unknown but was estimated recently as being close to 200,000.

From rebellion to resistance

The origins of the first crosses are unclear but seem to be linked to the uprising of the Lithuanian people against Russian authorities in 1831 and 1863. The riots met an extremely violent response from the army, leading to many gruesome deaths.  As families were forbidden to give a proper burial to the perished rebels, they started putting up symbolic crosses at the location of a former hill fort.

Since then, crosses have been added one by one as a sign of support to the families and the rebellion, and has since become a place of remembrance and worship. Over the subsequent decades it has become a regular pilgrimage, each cross representing the strong faith and unity of the Lithuanian people, especially as the country gained its independence in 1918.

More recently, the site took a special significance under the Soviet Union’s occupation between 1944 and 1990. Traveling from all over the country, Lithuanians continued to risk their life, creeping past soldiers and barbed wire to plant crosses as a sign of resistance and allegiance to their identity, religion and heritage. This practice could cost them their life however, as the Soviet Union rejected any form of religion and national identity other than its own.

The hill was therefore bulldozed at least three times in an attempt to erase the faintest trace of this peaceful resistance. In 1993 the site received the visit of Pope John-Paul II who declared it “a place for hope, peace, love and sacrifice”. The land being under no one’s jurisdiction, people are free to continue building crosses, expanding the hill into a site of worldwide recognition.

A symbol of human nature

At first view, this corner of horizon spiked up with dark crosses and led by an enormous statue of Jesus might seem to you as a doom-and-gloom kind of expedition. But don’t be put off by its oddity, and be aware that being religious isn’t required to fully appreciate the Hill of Crosses.

The meaning of this incredible site takes the visitor further than religious faith. It is a testimony to human nature and our amazing capacity to resist and unite against adversity. It is a proof of our resilience and our courage in times of darkness. It is a sign of courage, respect, decency and faith in human nature.

Making your way through the intricate pattern of the hill there is no way you won’t be moved by the centuries of perseverance.  As I wandered further away to take a look at the hill from afar, it struck me how glorious it looked, its crosses reaching for the sky as if in defiance of the surrounding bleak landscape. It’s location itself seems like a symbol of human nature since its origins, perpetually rising stronger from the ashes.

The Hill of Crosses can be found 12km away from the town centre of Siauliai and you can reach it by bus, taxi or microbus. However the best way to fully enjoy the experience on a sunny day is to rent a bike from the tourist office and make your way at your own pace. 

About the author

Julia Ossena is a French freelance travel journalist living in London. She has traveled extensively around Asia and Europe, and describes herself of being most proud of her year-long camping trip around the "old continent".